The '20th Century Limited', 'The Chief', 'The Commodore'. These were some of the great trains. Trains on which it was an experience to travel. It was not just a question of speed - it was the amenities they offered. The grave and solicitous waiters and porters. The carefully prepared food, carefully served. The panel drawing rooms and compartments, and the berths, upper and lower, behind dark green curtains. Today, the trains are pathetic victims of indifference and neglect and decay.