Social customs have grown so informal, it seems impossible that there was once a time that two coaches would block a narrow road all day long, rather than allow one to pass the other. To pass first was a sign of superior rank. In France, there was a time when a woman was judged, not on her charm, her beauty, or even her character - but merely on the way she could make a court bow. But Spain was the worst offender, where etiquette reached extremes...