There's a little town in Turkey called Çeşme, in a colorful bay, off the Aegean Sea. Some fifteen miles away, the Greek island of Chios lies, mountainous, and even on the best days it is half obscured by drifting rain clouds. In the summers, the vacationers stream in on charter flights until the town bulges to a population of 50,000 - but by October most of them are gone, and Çeşme recedes to its regular population of 2000 or so, to be forgotten until the summer rolls around again.